Welcome to Barts Tree Service – Tree, Stone, and Stump Grinding services across Connecticut.
Quality Work, Quick Response, Reasonable Rates
Barts Tree Service is family owned and operated out of Danbury Connecticut. We are dedicated to providing progressive and sustainable tree solutions to your landscape needs. Our team of arborists are highly skilled in all facets of tree care and work to educate the consumer on the best way to achieve their goals.
Our service area includes Fairfield county, Westchester county, southern Litchfield county and north western New Haven county.
Our goal at Barts is to develop standing relationships with our clients that exceed customer expectations while keeping safety and service foremost. This approach combined with our trademark thorough cleanup and attention to detail leaves each job site looking better than we found it.
Our services include:
Barts Tree Service is fully insured with liability and workers comp
Licensing & Certifications:
CT HIC # 0625619
CT Arborist # S-6028
CT Commercial Pesticide Application # B 3017
ISA Certified Arborist # NE-6959A
TCIA Certified Treecare Safety Professional (CTSP) # 1312
We’ve been busy strapping on our gear and climbing up on roof tops to shovel the heavy snow loads on peoples roof tops. Additionally we have been removing lots of ice dams that are backing up into people’s walls and windows from all the snow.
Many trees and shrubs can be disfigured and killed by road salt (Sodium chloride or Calcium Chloride). Sodium Chloride is used primarily since its less expensive but its also more damaging to plants. Late season applications of salt are more harmful to trees since there is less time and run off to leach salt from the soils near root zones.
- The worst damage occurs to sensitive species planted near heavily salted roads with high traffic, especially when they lie downhill, downwind, or have poor drainage.
- Salts cause damage two ways:
- Direct contact with foliage (Spray zone damage) which is typically seen on evergreens along roadways.
- The second method is through chemical modification of the soil where as plants uptake salt ions through the root system which then reaches toxic levels and scorches the foliage.
- Uptake of the salt ion also slows tree growth and increases stress by interfering with nutrient availability.
How can salt damage be recognized?
- Winter: look for “witch’s brooms” (cluster of twigs growing out of branch ends) on deciduous trees, yellow tips on evergreen needles.
- Early Summer: look for marginal leaf scorch on deciduous trees, yellow, brown, or fallen needles on evergreens–especially on the side toward the road.
- Other problems can produce the same symptoms, so examine the whole plant and site.
The following common trees are usually severely damaged by road salt:
- red maple (Acer rubrum)
- sugar maple (A. saccharum)
- hackberry (Celtis occidentalis)
- black walnut (Juglans nigra)
- Norway spruce (Picea abies)
- white spruce (P. glauca)
- white pine (Pinus strobus)
- Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)
- pin oak (Quercus palustris)
- littleleaf linden (Tilia cordata)
What can I do about it?
- Plant salt-tolerant species such as ashes, callery pears, ginkgo, hawthorns, honeylocust, London plane, tolerant maples (Norway, hedge, or sycamore), English and red oak, tolerant pines (Austrian, pitch, or Japanese black), Sargent cherry, or Scholar Tree.
- Reduce salt application rates, lower the throwing distance, and apply before roads freeze.
- Use a less harmful product such as CMA or IcebanTM, and mix in inert materials like sand.
- Wash salts off foliage with fresh water soon after exposure
- Avoid piling snow containing salt around plants or where runoff will effect plants
- Raise the planting site, or block off the trees from the road with a barrier.
- Improve drainage or adjust grade, so salt is easily leached away from trees.
- Leach salts from soil in root zone area by repeating applications of fresh water after the ground is no longer frozen. This is probably the most effective way to reduce soil salinity problems.
- Incorporating organic matter like gypsum or activated charcoal has been found to reduce salt damage in some cases but is a slow process.
For further information on this subject the CT Agricultural Experiment Station published a paper on this. Click here
We received a very nice note from Mrs. Reuthera’s 2nd grade class here in Danbury.
Dear Barts Tree Service,
I can’t fully express my joy, excitement, and thanks for your donation to my project. It is great to see that you share my vision for reaching children.
The tools that you have funded will enable students to read stories at their reading ability without worrying of another passing judgment. It will teach kids to use their voice while reading and bring back the excitement into reading a story.
Thank you so much. I can’t wait to introduce these tools to the children.
Do you see your husband or dad out mowing around that old stump in the yard and bumping into it each time? Get him a gift certificate to have the stump ground away and beautify the yard. The average stump is about $200 and we can do gift certificates starting at $50.
Know someone that still has hanging limbs from the storms in their yard? Give the gift of safety.
Call or email for a gift certificate that can be used for tree work, tree pruning, cabling or tree removals.
Give us a call if you would like a free consult and hazard risk assessment.
Happy Holidays from all of us a Barts Tree Service!!
Winter browning or winter burn of conifer (evergreen) shrubs and small trees around the house is best prevented by making sure the roots have adequate water late in the season. The browning, called desiccation, results from wind removing more moisture from the needles than can be replaced.
Browning or bleaching of evergreen foliage during winter occurs for four reasons:
- Winter sun and wind cause excessive transpiration (foliage water loss) while the roots are in frozen soil and unable to replace lost water. This results in desiccation and browning of the plant tissue.
- Bright sunny days during the winter also cause warming of the tissue above ambient temperature which in turn initiates cellular activity. Then, when the sun is quickly shaded, foliage temperature drops to injurious levels and the foliage is injured or killed.
- During bright, cold winter days, chlorophyll in the foliage is destroyed (photo-oxidized) and is not resynthesized when temperatures are below 28° F. This results in a bleaching of the foliage.
- Cold temperatures early in the fall before plants have hardened off completely or late spring after new growth has occurred can result in injury or death of this nonacclimated tissue.
Foliar damage normally occurs on the south, southwest, and windward sides of the plant, but in severe cases the whole plant may be affected. Yew, arborvitae, and hemlock are most susceptible, but winter browning can affect all evergreens. New transplants or plants with succulent, late season growth are particularly sensitive.
There are several ways to minimize winter injury to evergreens. The first is proper placement of evergreens in the landscape. Yew, hemlock, and arborvitae should not be planted on south or southwest sides of buildings or in highly exposed (windy, sunny) places. A second way to reduce damage is to prop pine boughs or Christmas tree greens against or over evergreens to protect them from wind and sun and to catch more snow for natural protection.
Winter injury can often be prevented by constructing a barrier of burlap or similar material on the south, southwest, and windward sides of evergreens. If a plant has exhibited injury on all sides, surround it with a barrier, but leave the top open to allow for some air and light penetration. This will also help keep the deer away from their midnight snacking when winter food gets scarce.
INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY OF ARBORICULTURE
PO Box 3129 • Champaign , IL 61826-3129 • (217) 355-9411 • www.isa-arbor.com
Matt D. Bartelme Earns Professional Certification as of November 5, 2013
Champaign, IL — Matt D. Bartelme of DANBURY, CT recently demonstrated professional competency by successfully completing the CERTIFIED ARBORIST examination administered through the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) and local Chapter of ISA.
The purpose of the ISA certification program is to improve the level of knowledge and standard of practice with in the tree care profession. Is designed to assist the public in identifying those professionals in arboriculture who have demonstrated, through a professionally developed examination and education program, a thorough knowledge of tree care practices. All Certified Arborist carry a wallet identification card for verification. * Certification is valid for three years. The ISA program tests and certifies an individual’s knowledge in the field of Arboriculture.
The International Society of Arboriculture is a scientific and educational organization devoted to the dissemination of information in the care and preservation of shade and ornamental trees.
ISA’s Certification Program is designed to promote the professional development of those involved in the field of arboriculture or tree care. When contracting for your tree care needs, contact individuals who are certified through this voluntary program
High winds and bitter cold wind chills are pounding the area. We have crews out responding to emergency calls for downed trees in Sherman and New Fairfield. Then we are headed to Ridgefield to remove storm damaged trees once the power lines are cleared. Be safe out there and stay indoors since there is a lot of falling debris from all the old storm damage thats still hanging in the trees.
We are here for any 24 hour storm damage needs you might have so don’t hesitate to call.